In less than two weeks I board a plane to Washington, DC, and I CANNOT WAIT!! You see, my brilliant playwright husband has had a play accepted to the Kennedy Center/National New Play Network's annual MFA Playwrights Workshop, and I have decided to take advantage of the free hotel room to spend a few days exploring our capital. Oh, and I want to see Tom's workshop too!
I will be in the District for 4 days, and will have a lot of time to myself as Tom does his artist thing at the Kennedy. I have already received lots of advice on what to do while in DC from locals, but am still looking for more great ideas. Anyone have a favorite landmark, restaurant or museum that I just can't miss? Please leave your suggestions below. (Comments about how amazing Tom is are also welcome)
Friday, July 15, 2011
Thursday, July 14, 2011
Clear Eyes, Full Hearts, Farewell
Two years ago when I moved to Texas, Friday Night Lights was just a blip on my pop-culture radar. I had never seen an episode, and while I actually really enjoy watching sports, I couldn't imagine getting hooked on a TV series whose main objective was to examine high school football in a small Texas town. But once we got to Austin, it seemed like everyone was watching and LOVING this show. So we went ahead and gave it a try. And you know what? It turns out the show isn't really about football at all. Oh, and it is also excellent.
We watched the previous four seasons quickly enough to catch up and watch season 5 as it has aired this summer. Tomorrow night NBC will show the series finale, and I have to admit, I am feeling a little sad. The show, as I mentioned above, really is about so much more than just football (although no one can doubt the show makes a strong case that football is the glue that holds together most small Texas towns). What I really love about this show is that it is an honest and compelling portrayal of the working class in America. I also really love the Taylors. The marriage between Coach and Tami, which is really the central aspect of the show, is honest, loving and sweet.
And I will admit that there really is something special about watching it while living in Austin. There is a Mack Brown reference in the pilot episode that I can guarantee you would have been lost on me had I not already experienced my first UT football season. It's also fun to roll my eyes at how silly the show's earnest love of Texas is, because that is just such a real depiction of how people feel here. It is actually kind of hard to not buy into the whole romantic "Texas Forever" thing, especially if you have Tami Taylor as a role model.
So if you haven't seen it, watch it! And then when you come to visit me in Austin, we can take a FNL tour around the city, playing mini-golf at Peter Pan, drinking milk shakes in the parking lot of Frans, and learning to two step at the Broken Spoke.
We watched the previous four seasons quickly enough to catch up and watch season 5 as it has aired this summer. Tomorrow night NBC will show the series finale, and I have to admit, I am feeling a little sad. The show, as I mentioned above, really is about so much more than just football (although no one can doubt the show makes a strong case that football is the glue that holds together most small Texas towns). What I really love about this show is that it is an honest and compelling portrayal of the working class in America. I also really love the Taylors. The marriage between Coach and Tami, which is really the central aspect of the show, is honest, loving and sweet.
And I will admit that there really is something special about watching it while living in Austin. There is a Mack Brown reference in the pilot episode that I can guarantee you would have been lost on me had I not already experienced my first UT football season. It's also fun to roll my eyes at how silly the show's earnest love of Texas is, because that is just such a real depiction of how people feel here. It is actually kind of hard to not buy into the whole romantic "Texas Forever" thing, especially if you have Tami Taylor as a role model.
So if you haven't seen it, watch it! And then when you come to visit me in Austin, we can take a FNL tour around the city, playing mini-golf at Peter Pan, drinking milk shakes in the parking lot of Frans, and learning to two step at the Broken Spoke.
Thursday, July 7, 2011
It's Very Domestic Around Here...
Many of you will recall my jubilant posts from around this time last year when Tom and I found the Mint House. We were giddy with anticipation of a yard for homer, a guest room and lack of loud neighbors sharing walls or ceilings with us. We have also found that our little urban spread has provided us plenty of space to indulge the dormant "Little House on the Prairie" aspects of our personalities. For instance, we have been...
Gardening. I know this isn't news to most of you, but the garden plays a central role in our lives now. We must water it daily due to the lack of rain fall and scorching triple digit heat that has beset the region. There is also the weeding, the trellising and staking. But all that work is so worth it. We picked 3 eggplants last week, several handfuls of green beans and our first watermelon! Nothing is better than celebrating Independence Day with a watermelon from your own garden.
Composting. Tom and I fill our one-gallon counter top compost bin, and that gets dumped into our large composter outside on a weekly basis. Not only do we prevent a good deal of our food scraps from going into the landfill, but the amazing soil we produce goes straight back into the garden to feed our plants.
Canning and Preserving. The lack of rain, and amount of time and energy we spend on the garden has inspired us to try and make sure none of goods coming out of the garden go to waste. While Tom is charged with making pesto and preserving our herbs, I have been canning nearly every weekend. The summer preserving started with a batch of spiced beets (which are so amazing on a salad with goat cheese that we are planning a special winter crop of beets so I can put up more jars.) I have also been trying my hand at pickling, with some escabeche-style spicy carrots and a batch of garlic dill cucumber pickles. Last weekend, with several pounds of ripe figs on the trees in our front yard, I took some time to cook up some fig, port and rosemary jam. The rosemary was also from the garden, of course. It tasted amazing, and is going to make a yummy addition to a future cheese tray. I think I will be doing some balsamic pickled figs in the weeks to come, and am contemplating pickled watermelon rind.
Cheese Making. Okay, we haven't actually done this yet, but last week I purchased the book Home Cheese Making, along with a starter cheese making kit. I am going to start with a basic mozzarella soon, but am hoping to experiment with other cheeses as I gain my confidence. You all wouldn't believe how easy cheese making actually is... at least that is what I am telling myself.
Gardening. I know this isn't news to most of you, but the garden plays a central role in our lives now. We must water it daily due to the lack of rain fall and scorching triple digit heat that has beset the region. There is also the weeding, the trellising and staking. But all that work is so worth it. We picked 3 eggplants last week, several handfuls of green beans and our first watermelon! Nothing is better than celebrating Independence Day with a watermelon from your own garden.
Composting. Tom and I fill our one-gallon counter top compost bin, and that gets dumped into our large composter outside on a weekly basis. Not only do we prevent a good deal of our food scraps from going into the landfill, but the amazing soil we produce goes straight back into the garden to feed our plants.
Canning and Preserving. The lack of rain, and amount of time and energy we spend on the garden has inspired us to try and make sure none of goods coming out of the garden go to waste. While Tom is charged with making pesto and preserving our herbs, I have been canning nearly every weekend. The summer preserving started with a batch of spiced beets (which are so amazing on a salad with goat cheese that we are planning a special winter crop of beets so I can put up more jars.) I have also been trying my hand at pickling, with some escabeche-style spicy carrots and a batch of garlic dill cucumber pickles. Last weekend, with several pounds of ripe figs on the trees in our front yard, I took some time to cook up some fig, port and rosemary jam. The rosemary was also from the garden, of course. It tasted amazing, and is going to make a yummy addition to a future cheese tray. I think I will be doing some balsamic pickled figs in the weeks to come, and am contemplating pickled watermelon rind.
Cheese Making. Okay, we haven't actually done this yet, but last week I purchased the book Home Cheese Making, along with a starter cheese making kit. I am going to start with a basic mozzarella soon, but am hoping to experiment with other cheeses as I gain my confidence. You all wouldn't believe how easy cheese making actually is... at least that is what I am telling myself.
Friday, July 1, 2011
What I Learned (v6)
1. I dont hate Austin anymore! Last weekend Tom and I had some friends over that we hadn't seen in a while. They are from Chicago, and have just finished up their first year in Austin. Although not miserable, they are pretty clearly unhappy here. I couldn't disagree with anything they said (in fact, I agreed with A LOT of what they said), but I also couldn't help but see just how far I have come since this time last year when I was so miserable. It helped realize that I have grown to kind of like this city. I hope they find our commiseration comforting, and I hope they will find their second year here to be a vast improvement over their first, as I did.
2. I get no respect. Some serious shit went down at work this week, including the laying off of a colleague and friend. It brought my situation here into sharp focus for me. While I know my job is safe at least for the next academic year, I also realized that it is time to give up the fight. I have struggled daily with the fact that this job doesn't fulfill me. It doesn't utilize my experience, it doesn't really grown me professionally, and it has become increasingly clear that the institution itself neither understands nor respects what it is fundraisers do. This is the first time I can remember that school or work hasn't been an important and fulfilling aspect of my life. While I do find some elements of growth and fulfillment this in the larger development community at UT, I am accepting the fact that this job will never be what it could be, but also that this is fine for now. All the shit hitting the fan has helped me do what I have been trying to do for months now, which is to just let go, and stop trying so hard. I do have reservations when I imagine how much good I might do if I kept trying, but without support from above, the struggle really is futile. I see that now, and it is liberating.
3. The appeal of Mr. Darcy is very real. Tom is out of town this week, living the life of an artist at The Orchard Project in the Catskills. While he is away, I have taken the opportunity to finally watch the much lauded BBC Pride and Prejudice miniseries. I read the book last fall, and it immediately grabbed a top spot as one of my absolute favorite reads of all time. So far, the miniseries is really living up to expectations. Colin Firth really is the perfect Darcy. Indeed, I think his portrayal may be even better than the written character. My only gripe is with the casting choice of Susannah Harker as the oldest sister in the Bennet family, Jane. She is supposed to be the most beautiful of the five sisters, and this is repeatedly stated outright. While the actress may be a perfectly lovely looking lady, she does not suit the period costumes or hair styles at all. She looks quite mannish actually. And anytime her mother or neighbors comment on her uncommon beauty, I find myself taken out of the story entirely, and even giggling sometimes. Have any of you seen it? Did you have the same reaction?
4. Dog buddies are awesome. One of my very dear friends from DePaul has moved to the Austin area with her husband, who has recently been stationed at nearby Ft. Hood. Along with her very agreeable husband, she has also brought her adorable puggle, Wrigley. Homer and Wrigley seem to like each other quite a bit, which is a good thing since Wrigley is staying with us for the next few days while his parents attend a wedding in Wisconsin. Is it wrong that I am secretly hoping this visit will help me lay the opening arguments to Tom for a doggie sibling for Homer?
Never has a three-day weekend been so acutely needed than this one. Work has been pretty hellish this week and I really need to put it behind me for a few days. Oh and Tom comes home tonight. Awesome!
2. I get no respect. Some serious shit went down at work this week, including the laying off of a colleague and friend. It brought my situation here into sharp focus for me. While I know my job is safe at least for the next academic year, I also realized that it is time to give up the fight. I have struggled daily with the fact that this job doesn't fulfill me. It doesn't utilize my experience, it doesn't really grown me professionally, and it has become increasingly clear that the institution itself neither understands nor respects what it is fundraisers do. This is the first time I can remember that school or work hasn't been an important and fulfilling aspect of my life. While I do find some elements of growth and fulfillment this in the larger development community at UT, I am accepting the fact that this job will never be what it could be, but also that this is fine for now. All the shit hitting the fan has helped me do what I have been trying to do for months now, which is to just let go, and stop trying so hard. I do have reservations when I imagine how much good I might do if I kept trying, but without support from above, the struggle really is futile. I see that now, and it is liberating.
3. The appeal of Mr. Darcy is very real. Tom is out of town this week, living the life of an artist at The Orchard Project in the Catskills. While he is away, I have taken the opportunity to finally watch the much lauded BBC Pride and Prejudice miniseries. I read the book last fall, and it immediately grabbed a top spot as one of my absolute favorite reads of all time. So far, the miniseries is really living up to expectations. Colin Firth really is the perfect Darcy. Indeed, I think his portrayal may be even better than the written character. My only gripe is with the casting choice of Susannah Harker as the oldest sister in the Bennet family, Jane. She is supposed to be the most beautiful of the five sisters, and this is repeatedly stated outright. While the actress may be a perfectly lovely looking lady, she does not suit the period costumes or hair styles at all. She looks quite mannish actually. And anytime her mother or neighbors comment on her uncommon beauty, I find myself taken out of the story entirely, and even giggling sometimes. Have any of you seen it? Did you have the same reaction?
4. Dog buddies are awesome. One of my very dear friends from DePaul has moved to the Austin area with her husband, who has recently been stationed at nearby Ft. Hood. Along with her very agreeable husband, she has also brought her adorable puggle, Wrigley. Homer and Wrigley seem to like each other quite a bit, which is a good thing since Wrigley is staying with us for the next few days while his parents attend a wedding in Wisconsin. Is it wrong that I am secretly hoping this visit will help me lay the opening arguments to Tom for a doggie sibling for Homer?
Never has a three-day weekend been so acutely needed than this one. Work has been pretty hellish this week and I really need to put it behind me for a few days. Oh and Tom comes home tonight. Awesome!
Thursday, June 23, 2011
Alinea Part Three: Sweets and What I Learned (v5)
Did you catch Part One: Lighter Beginnings, and Part Two: Meat and Truffles?
At this point in the meal, we are satisfied, and pretty full (though not in pain). But don't worry, four dessert courses ought to fix that...
At this point in the meal, we are satisfied, and pretty full (though not in pain). But don't worry, four dessert courses ought to fix that...
COURSE 15: Snow
We are told by our waitstaff that the metal top portion of this cone is dipped in liquid nitrogen, then an atomizer is used to spritz yuzu juice onto it, creating flavored snow. The we diners just need to use our spoon to scoop it off, almost like an upscale snow cone. It is very cold, tart and sweet, and is very pure yuzu flavor. It is the perfect savory to sweet transition, as it works brilliantly to cleanse the palate.COURSE 16: Sweet Potato
This course definitely goes on my top favorites list, and was my favorite dessert dish when considered solely based on taste (you will understand what this means after you read about #18.) It is basically these dollops of what I would call sweet potato pudding, with some sort of graham cracker-like brown sugar crumble, and that little white cloud is cayenne flavored cotton candy. There are also these self-contained little bubbles of bourbon. Oh, and the whole thing is set upon a cedar plank that was very recently on fire. Oh my word. It was beyond description. The sweet potato flavor mixed with the slightly spicy-sweet cotton candy... and the smell of the cedar... and then the little bourbon bubble explodes in your mouth. The fact that I will never eat this again brings on a heavy sense of enui.
COURSE 17: Lemongrass
This little clear tube is filled with liquid (comprised mainly of lemongrass, cucumber and finger lime) which is held in on one side by a plug of dragon fruit, and on the other by a lime gel. We are asked to inhale from one end of the tube to draw the contents into our mouths. I do this, and nearly have the contents explode from my mouth, not unlike a bourbon bubble or black truffle ravioli. I am not prepared for the amount of pressure it takes to free the lime gel, and I think the contents of the tube are just a little more voluminous than my mouth can comfortably handle. I am pretty sure I look like an inflated blowfish for 15 seconds, as I chew furiously and try to keep my lips clamped as tightly shut as possible. It is another clean, bright flavor combo, perfect to sandwich between two rich desserts. Very delicious. Very nearly embarrassing.
COURSE 18: Chocolate
It all started with a waiter asking Tom to move to the banquette next to me (a better vantage point for us to watch the show, he said). Then he laid out a silicone mat that covered the entire table. Several little dishes filled with unknown delights were set at the edge and then we waited. I have been reading in recent months about how the final course of the Alinea tour menu is plated by a chef from the kitchen, directly on your table. This knowledge in no way prepares me for the moment Grant Achatz is standing in front of us, asking us about our night, and describing, in detail, the food he is laying out on our table. It is haute cuisine meets modern art meets performance art and I am a huge fan.
The first thing chef Achatz does is lay out two clear, open ended tubes that are about 2" in diameter. He proceeds to pour a creamy looking liquid in, and diverts our attention by laying out the other components. He applies the saucy border to our table top masterpiece, consisting of a blueberry puree, a lightly whipped cream sweetened with Wisconsin honey, and a milk chocolate sauce. Tom and I are delighted that the chocolate is the exact consistency to where it forms into squares when applied. The chef then pours out some piles of chocolate and peanut dust. Then come the little squares of peanut nougat. Then whole blueberries which he tells us have been pickled in red wine. Next, a smoking plate is brought in, which Grant tells us is chocolate mouse frozen in liquid nitrogen. It is the size of a large brick, and he places it in the and proceeds to break it apart with something.. a small hammer maybe? He tops this large pile with a sprinkling of green a purple basil leaves. And just when we had forgotten all about them, he removes the clear tubes, whose liquid interior has magically set up into creme brulee. A torch appears, and after a quick sprinkle of sugar, he caramelizes the top of the custard.
I want to rave about the meal, but the chef comes across as impossibly shy, and I think to myself that I don't want to make him uncomfortable. He gives a little bow before departing and we thank him enthusiastically for blowing our minds.
The course is simply delicious. The sauces are sweet and rick, the mouse is so light despite being frozen. Basil plus chocolate is delightful, more so when you add blueberries. The peanut nougat is chewy and also somehow soft. We quickly turn the beautiful plating in to a muddled mess, and I will admit to having run my finger through the leftovers that my spoon just couldn't pick up (after all, I am eating off the table!)
We are stuffed to the gills and in something of a food trance. We easily, happily, let go of nearly a month's rent when the bill comes, leaving our service team of at least a half dozen the largest tip I have ever conceived. We slowly wander back downstairs where the maitre'd remembers we took a cab and has already sent a porter out to hail one for us. In the mean time, we are invited to stand at the glass wall of the kitchen to watch the goings on. It is quiet, methodical and beautiful. Much like our meal.
It was an enlightening and entertaining evening, and to round things out, a special Alina edition of What I Learned:
1. I probably wouldn't go back. The food, service and wine are all impeccable, but it is a significant investment of funds, and besides, I have my eye set on other culinary destinations (The French Laundry, Next, Per Se, Le Bernadin, The Fat Duck...
2. Texture is king. Texture is immensely important to me when it comes to judging the success of a dish. It can make or break a dish. And Temperature can, and probably will, delight me.
3. I want foie. I love truffles, but if I am going to pay so very much for a high end meal, I wish the chef would include a little fatted liver. I honestly missed it.
4. There is always room for dessert. And on a related note, I think people who say they leave this restaurant still hungry are full of shit.
The course is simply delicious. The sauces are sweet and rick, the mouse is so light despite being frozen. Basil plus chocolate is delightful, more so when you add blueberries. The peanut nougat is chewy and also somehow soft. We quickly turn the beautiful plating in to a muddled mess, and I will admit to having run my finger through the leftovers that my spoon just couldn't pick up (after all, I am eating off the table!)
We are stuffed to the gills and in something of a food trance. We easily, happily, let go of nearly a month's rent when the bill comes, leaving our service team of at least a half dozen the largest tip I have ever conceived. We slowly wander back downstairs where the maitre'd remembers we took a cab and has already sent a porter out to hail one for us. In the mean time, we are invited to stand at the glass wall of the kitchen to watch the goings on. It is quiet, methodical and beautiful. Much like our meal.
It was an enlightening and entertaining evening, and to round things out, a special Alina edition of What I Learned:
1. I probably wouldn't go back. The food, service and wine are all impeccable, but it is a significant investment of funds, and besides, I have my eye set on other culinary destinations (The French Laundry, Next, Per Se, Le Bernadin, The Fat Duck...
2. Texture is king. Texture is immensely important to me when it comes to judging the success of a dish. It can make or break a dish. And Temperature can, and probably will, delight me.
3. I want foie. I love truffles, but if I am going to pay so very much for a high end meal, I wish the chef would include a little fatted liver. I honestly missed it.
4. There is always room for dessert. And on a related note, I think people who say they leave this restaurant still hungry are full of shit.
Alinea Part Two: Meat and Truffles
Did you catch Part One: Lighter Beginnings?
We are getting into heartier territory with the next seven courses. I estimate Tom and I have already been eating for about 2 hours at this point...
When the waiter says octopus, I get nervous, as I have never traditionally liked octopus. Turns out this is mostly because other restaurants can't surpass the texture hurdle. The last time I ate it, I chewed for several minutes before giving up and just swallowing the bit. This is not our experience. The octopus itself has a... bouncy... texture, but it is easily chewed and tastes nice with the eggplant and redwine flavors the chef has paired with it. Dish Fun Fact #1: the bowl it is served in is rounded at the bottom so you can't set it on the table. And if you wanted to try, you cant, because the fork throws off the balance. Dish Fun Fact #2: Our friend Pat ate at Alinea exactly a week before us, and instead of serving this dish at the end of the heartier, more savory dishes, he got his between the razor clam and short rib dishes.
And with that, my friends, we end the salty, earthy, savory and hearty portion of our meal. Follow me to Part Three: Sweets
We are getting into heartier territory with the next seven courses. I estimate Tom and I have already been eating for about 2 hours at this point...
COURSE 8: Wild Mushrooms
The service team sets down our plates and I immediately get all squirmy and start saying "Morels, Tom! Look, morels. There are morels!" Before I even taste it, I have an inkling that this dish will join Scallop and English Pea Pt. 1 on my top dishes list: it smells divine. And the taste of the food does not disappoint. The morel flavor is outstanding, and they are joined on the dish by more pretty little woodland mushrooms. The paired flavors include ramps and red wine. This makes perfect sense for the earthy and savory mushrooms on the plate. Both lend their own savory quality, while also adding a bit of sweetness and acidity to brighten the dish. Also an inspiring choice, are notes of sumac and pine. The whole thing takes me right back to mushroom hunting in the woods of Missouri when I was a kid (where I grew up not realizing that the grocery bags full of morels that we would routinely find each spring would have fetched several hundreds of dollars in the morel bereft parts of the country.)COURSE 9: Hot Potato Cold Potato
Fuck yeah! I have been dreaming of this dish for years. It's an Achatz signature, and has been one of the few permanent members of his menu for a long while. It also happens to be featured in the Alinea cookbook, which I received for Christmas a few years back. Anyone want to come over some time and try our hand at this dish? Oh, you want to know how it tasted? Okay, the little wax bowl is filled with a cool potato soup. Skewered onto that metal pin are an impressive slice of black truffle, an orb of hot potato, a little chive, a small cube of butter and a bit of parmesean cheese. You pull the pin, which releases the garnishes into the little bowl, and shoot it back. It's so good. No surprise that potato, butter, truffle and cheese would be a divine pairing, but what is really lovely about this dish is the temperature difference between the soup and the orb. I know that is the point, and they nail it. The orb is piping hot on your tongue, and mingles with the cool soup and it is just wonderful. Super YUM.COURSE 10: Short Rib
Those red, flag like things (which arrived to our table around the time the English Pea was dropped off, and can be also seen in the Hamachi photo) became the wrapper for this next dish. This serving piece was the most intricate of all we saw during our meal, and I think four separate waiters were required (two for each of us). The frosted glass covers the wood base. When a waiter removes the glass, they reveal these two metal supports which we, the diners, had to put together. When connected, the two supports form a little platform system that a waiter then places the tomato pasta flag on top of. Another waiter comes to serve a portion of slow-cooked short rib onto the pasta. Main waiter then tells us to build our own...what, burrito? Cannelloni? with the available garnishes above. Then wrap it up, and eat it with our hands. I am game. So we have tobacco gelee (on the spoon), tomato vinaigrette, nicoise olives, fermented garlic, dried cherries, a fresh black berry, smoked salt and one or two other things I cannot remember. Suffice it to say I used everything except a bit of the tomato vinaigrette and some of the smoked salt. This was lovely. It has been a very long time since I have eaten any red meat, but I opted to do so for this experience, because I see Grant Achatz as an artist, and I wanted to have the full experience he was offering to his guests. Anyhow, it was amazing. The pasta was delicate, the short rib was rich and so tender, the tomato vinaigrette was fresh and bright and very tomatoey, the tobacco gelee a revelation of smooth and woody notes, and the fermented garlic bitter and savory. Olives to add a punch of saltiness, and the fruit add their own sweet counter point to all the goodness. We eat, with gusto, from our own hands, and are then served warm hand towels like we are on a flight to Europe. Very classy.COURSE 11: Black Truffle Explosion
This, with the potato, is the other signature dish that chef Achatz seems to keep on the menu pretty much permanently. It's another classic from the cook book, but this is a dish I have known about for far longer, as the chef was already making waves with it way back when he was cooking at Trio as early as 2001. But I digress. It is a ravioli, in which the chef has somehow managed to contain a hot liquified truffle essence. On top, you will notice a small garnish of romaine lettuce and parmesan cheese. Oh, and more truffle, in case the inside isn't indulgently truffley for you. I take my bite and instantly want a plate of 6 of these. The ravioli explodes in your mouth when you bite down, and you can no longer see or hear, all you perceive is truffles. It permeates your senses with its deliciousness.COURSE 12: Agneau (Fr. for lamb)
Those of you who are foodies may know that Grant Achatz has recently opened a new restaurant called Next, which for the next four months will focus solely on the cuisine of famed French culinary pioneer Escoffier. This dish is the one on our tour menu at Alinea that nods to this style of cooking that chef Achatz has recently been exploring. Our venture into Paris 1906 was quite memorable. The plate features roasted lamb atop a little brioche crouton. This is topped with "sauce choron" which is apparently bearnaise. The plate also had those little pomme de terre noisette which are apparently just potato which have been scooped out into little balls. The dish was quite good, and although I am not by any means a meat expert, for my taste the lamb was cooked really well. The texture was nice, not too chewy, but it was quite rare. There was also jus on the plate, and some extra blobs of the choron, in case you like it saucy, which I do. The dish was highlighted with antique service ware. It was a beautiful presentation, and delicious.COURSE 13: Venison
This is the point at which I am starting to hit food fatigue. We are closing in on three hours of dining at this point, and while not full, I am feeling pretty sated. This may explain why this dish was just okay for me. I love the idea of pairing meat with something sweet, and in this dish, you have a piece of venison with cherry and cocoa nib. The little piece of meat is nestled below a bed of eucalyptus leaves. Chef Achatz loves to play with scent, obviously, and the eucalyptus does match the other flavors nicely. Flavor-wise, I am digging it, but I end up feeling like the venison is sort of mealy in texture. COURSE 14: Octopus
When the waiter says octopus, I get nervous, as I have never traditionally liked octopus. Turns out this is mostly because other restaurants can't surpass the texture hurdle. The last time I ate it, I chewed for several minutes before giving up and just swallowing the bit. This is not our experience. The octopus itself has a... bouncy... texture, but it is easily chewed and tastes nice with the eggplant and redwine flavors the chef has paired with it. Dish Fun Fact #1: the bowl it is served in is rounded at the bottom so you can't set it on the table. And if you wanted to try, you cant, because the fork throws off the balance. Dish Fun Fact #2: Our friend Pat ate at Alinea exactly a week before us, and instead of serving this dish at the end of the heartier, more savory dishes, he got his between the razor clam and short rib dishes.
And with that, my friends, we end the salty, earthy, savory and hearty portion of our meal. Follow me to Part Three: Sweets
Alinea Part One: Lighter Beginnings
As promised, I am writing today to try and convey to you, my dear dozens, what exactly went down on June 8 at Alinea. In line with my expectations, it was without a doubt the most entertaining, surprising and expensive meals of my life.
I should note before we really begin that neither Tom nor I took any notes or photos while dining. It was a conscious decision we both made, opting instead to just enjoy the damn meal and concentrate on every bite. Hence, none of these photos below are mine. I took them all from the public sharing section of Picasa. Thanks to Pat King for finding many of them first!
To set the scene a bit: Tom and I had reserved a room downtown at the Knickerbocker for our last evening in Chicago. We checked in early, hung around lazily that afternoon getting hungry and excited, and then got ourselves all dressed up. We hailed a cab who took us the short way to this mysterious black brick building, unmarked but for the valet parking sign that sometimes adorns the sidewalk. We are greeted like celebrities, and seated immediately, despite arriving 15 minutes early.
Or maybe not. This is my least favorite dish of the entire evening. This course is served room temperature, and it contains a crazy and beautiful mess of stuff inside, including freeze dried peas, chamomile gelee, something I would call a pea cracker (I am guessing dehydrated pea puree) there are also some dried pea leaves maybe? And something that probably began as greek yogurt. Guys, it tasted so gross to me. The freeze dried peas are so sweet as to taste like candy, which just doesn't work for my palate in conjunction with the other flavors here. Everything else was fine as far as flavors go, but I couldn't get passed those sugary peas. We all have different palates, so I wont argue that this is probably a delicious taste for some, but for me... yuck.
Pea redemption is a dish best served very cold. Here we have pea soup which is frozen to the walls of the vessel, so it becomes sorbet-like in texture. It is topped with frozen crumbles of greek yogurt and a little apple something to round out the flavors. This dish is quite yummy. It's a nice exploration of the sweeter side of peas, without going so far into candy land as with the middle dish. And the fact that it is served ice cold is so genius. The temperature really compliments the clean and crisp flavors of this dish. Also cool how it all becomes liquid shortly after hitting your mouth.
We end up 2 out of 3 for the pea exploration, so good on you, Grant.
I should note before we really begin that neither Tom nor I took any notes or photos while dining. It was a conscious decision we both made, opting instead to just enjoy the damn meal and concentrate on every bite. Hence, none of these photos below are mine. I took them all from the public sharing section of Picasa. Thanks to Pat King for finding many of them first!
To set the scene a bit: Tom and I had reserved a room downtown at the Knickerbocker for our last evening in Chicago. We checked in early, hung around lazily that afternoon getting hungry and excited, and then got ourselves all dressed up. We hailed a cab who took us the short way to this mysterious black brick building, unmarked but for the valet parking sign that sometimes adorns the sidewalk. We are greeted like celebrities, and seated immediately, despite arriving 15 minutes early.
COURSE 1: Steelhead Roe
The base is this tart and creamy grapefruit and rutabaga soup, with the roe scattered through it. Those little white things that look like scallops were actually these pillows of dijon mustard flavored custard. The textures were amazing, and the flavors were unlike anything I have ever had. Bright citrus, earthy mustard and the little pops of salty fish eggs. Our spoons scraped the bottom, and I had to restrain myself from sticking my finger in the bowl to get the last bits (not knowing that soon, all such reservations would be gone). It was a bold opener. Game on!COURSE 2: Yuba
Tom and I are calling this the most amazing bar snack ever. The dish is about 8-10 inches long, and stands straight up with a little help from the savory sauce below it, in a pretty ceramic dish. What you are actually looking at is a crispy yuba stick (yuba is the skin that forms when you make tofu) wrapped in shrimp that are coated in black and white sesame seeds. You just grab the stick and eat, re-dipping into the dish of sauce frequently. Miso and togarashi were also main components of this dish. It was a little salty, and very forwardly umami/savory. And again, the textures were so amazing. The shrimp, of course, were perfectly cooked. Give me a dozen more, and a cold pint and I'm good!
COURSE 3: Oyster Leaf
This was one of those moments where we were amused, and perhaps a little perplexed. The serving team sets courses 3-5 in front of us at the same time, and again, no silverware. They were a beautiful and striking trio of dishes. We take the Oyster Leaf first, which appears to be a single piece of baby spinach toped with traditional mignonette (you know: shallots, salt, citrus, etc), served in an oyster shell. Not impressive Achatz. Something must be up, and our server soon fills us in: There is a plant called oysterleaf, and of course, this uncommon beauty grows only on the wild cliffs of Scotland, where they bask in the salty sea air. Also, when you eat it, you will notice a pronounced fresh oyster flavor. I have been to New Orleans four times in my life, and on each occasion have eaten no fewer than a dozen fresh, raw oysters (not to mention the countless other dozens that were barbecued, baked, etc). So, not expecting much, I shoot it back. Shut my mouth. It does, indeed, taste like fresh oysters. But I am missing the creaminess and strongly oceany taste of the real thing. I also cannot get over the texture (a common problem when eating oysters I am told, though I have never experienced it until this point.) Despite the prevalence of foams, liquid nitrogen and other tricks throughout the meal this seems like the most gimmicky, and least satisfying dish of the night.
COURSE 4: Scallop
Before I start, I want to say this is one of my favorite dishes of the night. It is one of the more simple preparations (after all, that is just a perfectly cooked sea scallop, served in a sea scallop shell) but the flavors were so ingenious that I fell in love. And, if my dear bestie Camilla had been dining with us, I have no doubt this preparation may have awoken a few distant food memories for her. Okay, so the food is simply a slightly cooked sweet sea scallop with a hitachino weizen foam (this is a wheat beer) and Old Bay infused oil. But oh my god is it good.
COURSE 5: Razor Clam
I can't find a picture of it opened, but inside here you will find (grilled?) razor clams, with carrot, soy and daikon. It's a great combination. The sauce that coats the whole mixture reminds me, in the best way, of Eel Sauce. The clams are just the right amount of chewy, and it's fun to watch your partner use their finger to slide the contents down their waiting gullet. Yes, we are at the restaurant recently named the best on the continent. Yes, we are eating with our fingers... a lot.
COURSE 6: English Pea
This is considered a single course by the kitchen, but is made of three distinct dishes/experiences. They set a spherical, multi-level white ceramic dish in front of us which contains a different dish in each level. Let's call it an exploration of temperature.
I don't particularly love peas, but the first dish will prove to be my favorite of the trip, and will put me in a good mindset to experience the rest. It is a warm pea puree, with pea tendrils and pea vinaigrette. I am wondering to myself how in the heck they got fresh pea shoots so late in the season, when I remember that while pea season may be long gone in Austin, it is still spring in the Midwest. The puree is so nicely salty, it balances the pronounced sweetness of the peas. The tendrils are delicate and crunchy, and it is just a satisfying and savory few bites. The flavors are really pleasing. Bring on more peas!
Or maybe not. This is my least favorite dish of the entire evening. This course is served room temperature, and it contains a crazy and beautiful mess of stuff inside, including freeze dried peas, chamomile gelee, something I would call a pea cracker (I am guessing dehydrated pea puree) there are also some dried pea leaves maybe? And something that probably began as greek yogurt. Guys, it tasted so gross to me. The freeze dried peas are so sweet as to taste like candy, which just doesn't work for my palate in conjunction with the other flavors here. Everything else was fine as far as flavors go, but I couldn't get passed those sugary peas. We all have different palates, so I wont argue that this is probably a delicious taste for some, but for me... yuck.
Pea redemption is a dish best served very cold. Here we have pea soup which is frozen to the walls of the vessel, so it becomes sorbet-like in texture. It is topped with frozen crumbles of greek yogurt and a little apple something to round out the flavors. This dish is quite yummy. It's a nice exploration of the sweeter side of peas, without going so far into candy land as with the middle dish. And the fact that it is served ice cold is so genius. The temperature really compliments the clean and crisp flavors of this dish. Also cool how it all becomes liquid shortly after hitting your mouth.
We end up 2 out of 3 for the pea exploration, so good on you, Grant.
COURSE 7: Hamachi
The service team sets these funny little service vessels in front of us which hold some manner of fried puff that has been skewered with a warm vanilla bean. We are told it is hamachi with banana and ginger. The fish itself is very mild and buttery, and the tropical flavors paired with it are perfection. The bite itself has been lightly fried, so obviously that is yummy. The smell of the warm vanilla bean while you take your bite makes the whole thing seem very indulgent. This course was most definitely a hit. Who wouldn't love food that is served on your very own vanilla bean pod? Maybe we will put this (along with the yuba dish) on our bar menu.
With the introduction of these rich flavors, I can tell we are moving into heartier territory. Jump to Alinea Part Two to learn about the portion of the meal I like to call Meat and Truffles.
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