Thursday, June 23, 2011

Alinea Part Three: Sweets and What I Learned (v5)

Did you catch Part One: Lighter Beginnings, and Part Two: Meat and Truffles?

At this point in the meal, we are satisfied, and pretty full (though not in pain). But don't worry, four dessert courses ought to fix that...

COURSE 15: Snow
We are told by our waitstaff that the metal top portion of this cone is dipped in liquid nitrogen, then an atomizer is used to spritz yuzu juice onto it, creating flavored snow. The we diners just need to use our spoon to scoop it off, almost like an upscale snow cone. It is very cold, tart and sweet, and is very pure yuzu flavor. It is the perfect savory to sweet transition, as it works brilliantly to cleanse the palate.

COURSE 16: Sweet Potato
This course definitely goes on my top favorites list, and was my favorite dessert dish when considered solely based on taste (you will understand what this means after you read about #18.) It is basically these dollops of what I would call sweet potato pudding, with some sort of graham cracker-like brown sugar crumble, and that little white cloud is cayenne flavored cotton candy. There are also these self-contained little bubbles of bourbon. Oh, and the whole thing is set upon a cedar plank that was very recently on fire. Oh my word. It was beyond description. The sweet potato flavor mixed with the slightly spicy-sweet cotton candy... and the smell of the cedar... and then the little bourbon bubble explodes in your mouth. The fact that I will never eat this again brings on a heavy sense of enui. 

COURSE 17: Lemongrass
This little clear tube is filled with liquid (comprised mainly of lemongrass, cucumber and finger lime) which is held in on one side by a plug of dragon fruit, and on the other by a lime gel. We are asked to inhale from one end of the tube to draw the contents into our mouths. I do this, and nearly have the contents explode from my mouth, not unlike a bourbon bubble or black truffle ravioli.  I am not prepared for the amount of pressure it takes to free the lime gel, and I think the contents of the tube are just a little more voluminous than my mouth can comfortably handle. I am pretty sure I look like an inflated blowfish for 15 seconds, as I chew furiously and try to keep my lips clamped as tightly shut as possible. It is another clean, bright flavor combo, perfect to sandwich between two rich desserts. Very delicious. Very nearly embarrassing.

COURSE 18: Chocolate
It all started with a waiter asking Tom to move to the banquette next to me (a better vantage point for us to watch the show, he said). Then he laid out a silicone mat that covered the entire table. Several little dishes filled with unknown delights were set at the edge and then we waited. I have been reading in recent months about how the final course of the Alinea tour menu is plated by a chef from the kitchen, directly on your table. This knowledge in no way prepares me for the moment Grant Achatz is standing in front of us, asking us about our night, and describing, in detail, the food he is laying out on our table. It is haute cuisine meets modern art meets performance art and I am a huge fan. 

The first thing chef Achatz does is lay out two clear, open ended tubes that are about 2" in diameter. He proceeds to pour a creamy looking liquid in, and diverts our attention by laying out the other components. He applies the saucy border to our table top masterpiece, consisting of a blueberry puree, a lightly whipped cream sweetened with Wisconsin honey, and a milk chocolate sauce. Tom and I are delighted that the chocolate is the exact consistency to where it forms into squares when applied. The chef then pours out some piles of chocolate and peanut dust. Then come the little squares of peanut nougat. Then whole blueberries which he tells us have been pickled in red wine. Next, a smoking plate is brought in, which Grant tells us is chocolate mouse frozen in liquid nitrogen. It is the size of a large brick, and he places it in the and proceeds to break it apart with something.. a small hammer maybe? He tops this large pile with a sprinkling of green a purple basil leaves. And just when we had forgotten all about them, he removes the clear tubes, whose liquid interior has magically set up into creme brulee. A torch appears, and after a quick sprinkle of sugar, he caramelizes the top of the custard.  

I want to rave about the meal, but the chef comes across as impossibly shy, and I think to myself that I don't want to make him uncomfortable. He gives a little bow before departing and we thank him enthusiastically for blowing our minds.

The course is simply delicious. The sauces are sweet and rick, the mouse is so light despite being frozen. Basil plus chocolate is delightful, more so when you add blueberries.  The peanut nougat is chewy and also somehow soft.  We quickly turn the beautiful plating in to a muddled mess, and I will admit to having run my finger through the leftovers that my spoon just couldn't pick up (after all, I am eating off the table!)

We are stuffed to the gills and in something of a food trance. We easily, happily, let go of nearly a month's rent when the bill comes, leaving our service team of at least a half dozen the largest tip I have ever conceived. We slowly wander back downstairs where the maitre'd remembers we took a cab and has already sent a porter out to hail one for us. In the mean time, we are invited to stand at the glass wall of the kitchen to watch the goings on. It is quiet, methodical and beautiful. Much like our meal.

It was an enlightening and entertaining evening, and to round things out, a special Alina edition of What I Learned:
1. I probably wouldn't go back.  The food, service and wine are all impeccable, but it is a significant investment of funds, and besides, I have my eye set on other culinary destinations (The French Laundry, Next, Per Se, Le Bernadin, The Fat Duck...
2. Texture is king. Texture is immensely important to me when it comes to judging the success of a dish. It can make or break a dish. And Temperature can, and probably will, delight me.
3. I want foie. I love truffles, but if I am going to pay so very much for a high end meal, I wish the chef would include a little fatted liver. I honestly missed it.
4. There is always room for dessert. And on a related note, I think people who say they leave this restaurant still hungry are full of shit. 

Alinea Part Two: Meat and Truffles

Did you catch Part One: Lighter Beginnings?

We are getting into heartier territory with the next seven courses. I estimate Tom and I have already been eating for about 2 hours at this point...

COURSE 8: Wild Mushrooms
The service team sets down our plates and I immediately get all squirmy and start saying "Morels, Tom! Look, morels. There are morels!" Before I even taste it, I have an inkling that this dish will join Scallop and English Pea Pt. 1 on my top dishes list: it smells divine. And the taste of the food does not disappoint. The morel flavor is outstanding, and they are joined on the dish by more pretty little woodland mushrooms. The paired flavors include ramps and red wine. This makes perfect sense for the earthy and savory mushrooms on the plate.  Both lend their own savory quality, while also adding a bit of sweetness and acidity to brighten the dish. Also an inspiring choice, are notes of sumac and pine. The whole thing takes me right back to mushroom hunting in the woods of Missouri when I was a kid (where I grew up not realizing that the grocery bags full of morels that we would routinely find each spring would have fetched several hundreds of dollars in the morel bereft parts of the country.)

COURSE 9: Hot Potato Cold Potato
Fuck yeah! I have been dreaming of this dish for years. It's an Achatz signature, and has been one of the few permanent members of his menu for a long while. It also happens to be featured in the Alinea cookbook, which I received for Christmas a few years back. Anyone want to come over some time and try our hand at this dish? Oh, you want to know how it tasted? Okay, the little wax bowl is filled with a cool potato soup. Skewered onto that metal pin are an impressive slice of black truffle, an orb of hot potato, a little chive, a small cube of butter and a bit of parmesean cheese. You pull the pin, which releases the garnishes into the little bowl, and shoot it back. It's so good. No surprise that potato, butter, truffle and cheese would be a divine pairing, but what is really lovely about this dish is the temperature difference between the soup and the orb. I know that is the point, and they nail it. The orb is piping hot on your tongue, and mingles with the cool soup and it is just wonderful. Super YUM.

COURSE 10: Short Rib
Those red, flag like things (which arrived to our table around the time the English Pea was dropped off, and can be also seen in the Hamachi photo) became the wrapper for this next dish. This serving piece was the most intricate of all we saw during our meal, and I think four separate waiters were required (two for each of us). The frosted glass covers the wood base. When a waiter removes the glass, they reveal these two metal supports which we, the diners, had to put together. When connected, the two supports form a little platform system that a waiter then places the tomato pasta flag on top of. Another waiter comes to serve a portion of slow-cooked short rib onto the pasta. Main waiter then tells us to build our own...what, burrito? Cannelloni? with the available garnishes above. Then wrap it up, and eat it with our hands. I am game. So we have tobacco gelee (on the spoon), tomato vinaigrette, nicoise olives, fermented garlic, dried cherries, a fresh black berry, smoked salt and one or two other things I cannot remember. Suffice it to say I used everything except a bit of the tomato vinaigrette and some of the smoked salt. This was lovely. It has been a very long time since I have eaten any red meat, but I opted to do so for this experience, because I see Grant Achatz as an artist, and I wanted to have the full experience he was offering to his guests. Anyhow, it was amazing. The pasta was delicate, the short rib was rich and so tender, the tomato vinaigrette was fresh and bright and very tomatoey, the tobacco gelee a revelation of smooth and woody notes, and the fermented garlic bitter and savory. Olives to add a punch of saltiness, and the fruit add their own sweet counter point to all the goodness. We eat, with gusto, from our own hands, and are then served warm hand towels like we are on a flight to Europe. Very classy.

COURSE 11: Black Truffle Explosion
This, with the potato, is the other signature dish that chef Achatz seems to keep on the menu pretty much permanently. It's another classic from the cook book, but this is a dish I have known about for far longer, as the chef was already making waves with it way back when he was cooking at Trio as early as 2001. But I digress. It is a ravioli, in which the chef has somehow managed to contain a hot liquified truffle essence. On top, you will notice a small garnish of romaine lettuce and parmesan cheese. Oh, and more truffle, in case the inside isn't indulgently truffley for you.  I take my bite and instantly want a plate of 6 of these. The ravioli explodes in your mouth when you bite down, and you can no longer see or hear, all you perceive is truffles. It permeates your senses with its deliciousness.

COURSE 12: Agneau (Fr. for lamb)
Those of you who are foodies may know that Grant Achatz has recently opened a new restaurant called Next, which for the next four months will focus solely on the cuisine of famed French culinary pioneer Escoffier. This dish is the one on our tour menu at Alinea that nods to this style of cooking that chef Achatz has recently been exploring. Our venture into Paris 1906 was quite memorable. The plate features roasted lamb atop a little brioche crouton. This is topped with "sauce choron" which is apparently bearnaise. The plate also had those little pomme de terre noisette which are apparently just potato which have been scooped out into little balls. The dish was quite good, and although I am not by any means a meat expert, for my taste the lamb was cooked really well. The texture was nice, not too chewy, but it was quite rare. There was also jus on the plate, and some extra blobs of the choron, in case you like it saucy, which I do. The dish was highlighted with antique service ware. It was a beautiful presentation, and delicious.

COURSE 13: Venison
This is the point at which I am starting to hit food fatigue. We are closing in on three hours of dining at this point, and while not full, I am feeling pretty sated. This may explain why this dish was just okay for me. I love the idea of pairing meat with something sweet, and in this dish, you have a piece of venison with cherry and cocoa nib.  The little piece of meat is nestled below a bed of eucalyptus leaves.  Chef Achatz loves to play with scent, obviously, and the eucalyptus does match the other flavors nicely. Flavor-wise, I am digging it, but I end up feeling like the venison is sort of mealy in texture.

COURSE 14: Octopus

When the waiter says octopus, I get nervous, as I have never traditionally liked octopus. Turns out this is mostly because other restaurants can't surpass the texture hurdle. The last time I ate it, I chewed for several minutes before giving up and just swallowing the bit. This is not our experience. The octopus itself has a... bouncy... texture, but it is easily chewed and tastes nice with the eggplant and redwine flavors the chef has paired with it.  Dish Fun Fact #1: the bowl it is served in is rounded at the bottom so you can't set it on the table. And if you wanted to try, you cant, because the fork throws off the balance. Dish Fun Fact #2: Our friend Pat ate at Alinea exactly a week before us, and instead of serving this dish at the end of the heartier, more savory dishes, he got his between the razor clam and short rib dishes.

And with that, my friends, we end the salty, earthy, savory and hearty portion of our meal. Follow me to Part Three: Sweets

Alinea Part One: Lighter Beginnings

As promised, I am writing today to try and convey to you, my dear dozens, what exactly went down on June 8 at Alinea.  In line with my expectations, it was without a doubt the most entertaining, surprising and expensive meals of my life.

I should note before we really begin that neither Tom nor I took any notes or photos while dining. It was a conscious decision we both made, opting instead to just enjoy the damn meal and concentrate on every bite. Hence, none of these photos below are mine. I took them all from the public sharing section of Picasa. Thanks to Pat King for finding many of them first!

To set the scene a bit: Tom and I had reserved a room downtown at the Knickerbocker for our last evening in Chicago. We checked in early, hung around lazily that afternoon getting hungry and excited, and then got ourselves all dressed up. We hailed a cab who took us the short way to this mysterious black brick building, unmarked but for the valet parking sign that sometimes adorns the sidewalk. We are greeted like celebrities, and seated immediately, despite arriving 15 minutes early.

COURSE 1: Steelhead Roe
The base is this tart and creamy grapefruit and rutabaga soup, with the roe scattered through it. Those little white things that look like scallops were actually these pillows of dijon mustard flavored custard. The textures were amazing, and the flavors were unlike anything I have ever had. Bright citrus, earthy mustard and the little pops of salty fish eggs. Our spoons scraped the bottom, and I had to restrain myself from sticking my finger in the bowl to get the last bits (not knowing that soon, all such reservations would be gone). It was a bold opener. Game on!

COURSE 2: Yuba
Tom and I are calling this the most amazing bar snack ever.  The dish is about 8-10 inches long, and stands straight up with a little help from the savory sauce below it, in a pretty ceramic dish. What you are actually looking at is a crispy yuba stick (yuba is the skin that forms when you make tofu) wrapped in shrimp that are coated in black and white sesame seeds. You just grab the stick and eat, re-dipping into the dish of sauce frequently. Miso and togarashi were also main components of this dish. It was a little salty, and very forwardly umami/savory. And again, the textures were so amazing. The shrimp, of course, were perfectly cooked. Give me a dozen more, and a cold pint and I'm good!

COURSE 3: Oyster Leaf
This was one of those moments where we were amused, and perhaps a little perplexed. The serving team sets courses 3-5 in front of us at the same time, and again, no silverware. They were a beautiful and striking trio of dishes. We take the Oyster Leaf first, which appears to be a single piece of baby spinach toped with traditional mignonette (you know: shallots, salt, citrus, etc), served in an oyster shell. Not impressive Achatz. Something must be up, and our server soon fills us in: There is a plant called oysterleaf, and of course, this uncommon beauty grows only on the wild cliffs of Scotland, where they bask in the salty sea air. Also, when you eat it, you will notice a pronounced fresh oyster flavor. I have been to New Orleans four times in my life, and on each occasion have eaten no fewer than a dozen fresh, raw oysters (not to mention the countless other dozens that were barbecued, baked, etc). So, not expecting much, I shoot it back. Shut my mouth. It does, indeed, taste like fresh oysters. But I am missing the creaminess and strongly oceany taste of the real thing. I also cannot get over the texture (a common problem when eating oysters I am told, though I have never experienced it until this point.) Despite the prevalence of foams, liquid nitrogen and other tricks throughout the meal this seems like the most gimmicky, and least satisfying dish of the night. 

COURSE 4: Scallop
Before I start, I want to say this is one of my favorite dishes of the night. It is one of the more simple preparations (after all, that is just a perfectly cooked sea scallop, served in a sea scallop shell) but the flavors were so ingenious that I fell in love. And, if my dear bestie Camilla had been dining with us, I have no doubt this preparation may have awoken a few distant food memories for her. Okay, so the food is simply a slightly cooked sweet sea scallop with a hitachino weizen foam (this is a wheat beer) and Old Bay infused oil. But oh my god is it good. 

COURSE 5: Razor Clam
I can't find a picture of it opened, but inside here you will find (grilled?) razor clams, with carrot, soy and daikon. It's a great combination. The sauce that coats the whole mixture reminds me, in the best way, of Eel Sauce. The clams are just the right amount of chewy, and it's fun to watch your partner use their finger to slide the contents down their waiting gullet. Yes, we are at the restaurant recently named the best on the continent. Yes, we are eating with our fingers... a lot.


COURSE 6: English Pea
This is considered a single course by the kitchen, but is made of three distinct dishes/experiences. They set a spherical, multi-level white ceramic dish in front of us which contains a different dish in each level.  Let's call it an exploration of temperature. 
I don't particularly love peas, but the first dish will prove to be my favorite of the trip, and will put me in a good mindset to experience the rest. It is a warm pea puree, with pea tendrils and pea vinaigrette. I am wondering to myself how in the heck they got fresh pea shoots so late in the season, when I remember that while pea season may be long gone in Austin, it is still spring in the Midwest. The puree is so nicely salty, it balances the pronounced sweetness of the peas. The tendrils are delicate and crunchy, and it is just a satisfying and savory few bites. The flavors are really pleasing. Bring on more peas! 

Or maybe not. This is my least favorite dish of the entire evening. This course is served room temperature, and it contains a crazy and beautiful mess of stuff inside, including freeze dried peas, chamomile gelee, something I would call a pea cracker (I am guessing dehydrated pea puree) there are also some dried pea leaves maybe? And something that probably began as greek yogurt. Guys, it tasted so gross to me. The freeze dried peas are so sweet as to taste like candy, which just doesn't work for my palate in conjunction with the other flavors here. Everything else was fine as far as flavors go, but I couldn't get passed those sugary peas. We all have different palates, so I wont argue that this is probably a delicious taste for some, but for me... yuck. 

Pea redemption is a dish best served very cold. Here we have pea soup which is frozen to the walls of the vessel, so it becomes sorbet-like in texture. It is topped with frozen crumbles of greek yogurt and a little apple something to round out the flavors. This dish is quite yummy. It's a nice exploration of the sweeter side of peas, without going so far into candy land as with the middle dish. And the fact that it is served ice cold is so genius. The temperature really compliments the clean and crisp flavors of this dish. Also cool how it all becomes liquid shortly after hitting your mouth.

We end up 2 out of 3 for the pea exploration, so good on you, Grant. 

COURSE 7: Hamachi
The service team sets these funny little service vessels in front of us which hold some manner of fried puff that has been skewered with a warm vanilla bean. We are told it is hamachi with banana and ginger. The fish itself is very mild and buttery, and the tropical flavors paired with it are perfection. The bite itself has been lightly fried, so obviously that is yummy. The smell of the warm vanilla bean while you take your bite makes the whole thing seem very indulgent. This course was most definitely a hit. Who wouldn't love food that is served on your very own vanilla bean pod? Maybe we will put this (along with the yuba dish) on our bar menu. 

With the introduction of these rich flavors, I can tell we are moving into heartier territory. Jump to Alinea Part Two to learn about the portion of the meal I like to call Meat and Truffles


Friday, June 17, 2011

What I Learned (v4)

This week is a special two-week wrap up of what I have learned...


Chicago is as awesome as I remember! The food, the public transportation, the cultural opportunities, and most importantly my friends and family are all what keep my love affair with Chicago holding strong.

But the parking and traffic still suck. It's not all wonderful. There are so many cars in the city, parking is tough in most places, and almost no one has a driveway. How on earth did I get groceries and Ikea furniture back to my apartment for 10 years?! It made me appreciate how easy it is to drive in Austin.

Grant Achatz is a culinary genius, but I am not sure I would go back (gasp!) The Alinea experience was so unique, and Tom and I are still talking about how entertaining, and how fun the meal was. It is true there were many new textures and treatments of food that blew my mind. Ultimately, however, none of the food was so exceedingly tasty that I would blow such a huge wad of cash to do it all again. I'd rather fly to New York for a long weekend, or update my wardrobe for the season ahead. But I will pay any asking price to get a place of those black truffle explosion raviolis.

Celebrating with family is priceless.  This is something I kind of already know, but celebrating two wedding and a birthday party are excellent reminders of how much I love my families, and how luck Tom and I are.

Work sucks. It's true! At least when you compare it to vacation. But coming back, I also remembered that it's really nice to be employed, so you can afford to pay your bills and buy groceries (and go on more trips.)

I never want to have an enterography CT scan ever again.  It turns out that little pill isn't quite working how it is supposed to. So, the doctor ordered a scan and my stomach hasn't been the same since the scan prep. I heard back today that the CT showed no abnormalities. This sort of brings me back to square one. I am hoping the doc has a few other ideas...

There's no place like Home(r). I missed that guy so much. And my bed. I missed my bed.

Thursday, June 16, 2011

Home Safely

Hello Friends! This is just a quick post to ensure you all we are back safely in the sweaty embrace of Austin. It's basically hotter than I ever thought it could be in June anywhere, and we are breaking new records every day. There is no point in even watching the weather- every seven day outlook that I have caught this week forecast triple digits as far they can see, with no rain predicted. It's great for the tomatoes and melons, but murder on our electric and water bills.

The brutal weather is just one more reason to look back fondly on our great trip to Chicago and St Louis last week! I intend to write a blow-by-blow review of our Alinea experience this weekend, but in the mean time, let me just say that the trip was an embarrassment of great food, amazing friends, and fun with family. We got to see both sets of parents, nearly all our siblings (we missed Sean and Lily SO MUCH!) and we got (almost enough) quality time with the nephews.

I will particularity cherish bath time with the twins (seriously, nothing is more fun, or more adorable, than bathing one-year old twins who LOVE the water). I am also looking back fondly on doing the Cha Cha Slide with my dad at wedding #2 (Tom refused, so like any good dad, Bob stepped in). There is also the funny story of how Tom took a last minute pinch hit and stepped in last minute to officiate wedding #1. To complete the baseball metaphor, he hit it out of the park, and was received with much love and appreciation by all at the reception that followed.

It was a whirlwind, and we did and saw so much that I am definitely still recovering. Needless to say, we are very much looking forward to the next visit to our Midwestern homes.