Alinea Part Three: Sweets and What I Learned (v5)

Did you catch Part One: Lighter Beginnings, and Part Two: Meat and Truffles?

At this point in the meal, we are satisfied, and pretty full (though not in pain). But don't worry, four dessert courses ought to fix that...

COURSE 15: Snow

We are told by our waitstaff that the metal top portion of this cone is dipped in liquid nitrogen, then an atomizer is used to spritz yuzu juice onto it, creating flavored snow. The we diners just need to use our spoon to scoop it off, almost like an upscale snow cone. It is very cold, tart and sweet, and is very pure yuzu flavor. It is the perfect savory to sweet transition, as it works brilliantly to cleanse the palate.

COURSE 16: Sweet Potato

This course definitely goes on my top favorites list, and was my favorite dessert dish when considered solely based on taste (you will understand what this means after you read about #18.) It is basically these dollops of what I would call sweet potato pudding, with some sort of graham cracker-like brown sugar crumble, and that little white cloud is cayenne flavored cotton candy. There are also these self-contained little bubbles of bourbon. Oh, and the whole thing is set upon a cedar plank that was very recently on fire. Oh my word. It was beyond description. The sweet potato flavor mixed with the slightly spicy-sweet cotton candy... and the smell of the cedar... and then the little bourbon bubble explodes in your mouth. The fact that I will never eat this again brings on a heavy sense of enui. 

COURSE 17: Lemongrass

This little clear tube is filled with liquid (comprised mainly of lemongrass, cucumber and finger lime) which is held in on one side by a plug of dragon fruit, and on the other by a lime gel. We are asked to inhale from one end of the tube to draw the contents into our mouths. I do this, and nearly have the contents explode from my mouth, not unlike a bourbon bubble or black truffle ravioli.  I am not prepared for the amount of pressure it takes to free the lime gel, and I think the contents of the tube are just a little more voluminous than my mouth can comfortably handle. I am pretty sure I look like an inflated blowfish for 15 seconds, as I chew furiously and try to keep my lips clamped as tightly shut as possible. It is another clean, bright flavor combo, perfect to sandwich between two rich desserts. Very delicious. Very nearly embarrassing.

COURSE 18: Chocolate

It all started with a waiter asking Tom to move to the banquette next to me (a better vantage point for us to watch the show, he said). Then he laid out a silicone mat that covered the entire table. Several little dishes filled with unknown delights were set at the edge and then we waited. I have been reading in recent months about how the final course of the Alinea tour menu is plated by a chef from the kitchen, directly on your table. This knowledge in no way prepares me for the moment Grant Achatz is standing in front of us, asking us about our night, and describing, in detail, the food he is laying out on our table. It is haute cuisine meets modern art meets performance art and I am a huge fan. 

The first thing chef Achatz does is lay out two clear, open ended tubes that are about 2" in diameter. He proceeds to pour a creamy looking liquid in, and diverts our attention by laying out the other components. He applies the saucy border to our table top masterpiece, consisting of a blueberry puree, a lightly whipped cream sweetened with Wisconsin honey, and a milk chocolate sauce. Tom and I are delighted that the chocolate is the exact consistency to where it forms into squares when applied. The chef then pours out some piles of chocolate and peanut dust. Then come the little squares of peanut nougat. Then whole blueberries which he tells us have been pickled in red wine. Next, a smoking plate is brought in, which Grant tells us is chocolate mouse frozen in liquid nitrogen. It is the size of a large brick, and he places it in the and proceeds to break it apart with something.. a small hammer maybe? He tops this large pile with a sprinkling of green a purple basil leaves. And just when we had forgotten all about them, he removes the clear tubes, whose liquid interior has magically set up into creme brulee. A torch appears, and after a quick sprinkle of sugar, he caramelizes the top of the custard.  

I want to rave about the meal, but the chef comes across as impossibly shy, and I think to myself that I don't want to make him uncomfortable. He gives a little bow before departing and we thank him enthusiastically for blowing our minds.

The course is simply delicious. The sauces are sweet and rick, the mouse is so light despite being frozen. Basil plus chocolate is delightful, more so when you add blueberries.  The peanut nougat is chewy and also somehow soft.  We quickly turn the beautiful plating in to a muddled mess, and I will admit to having run my finger through the leftovers that my spoon just couldn't pick up (after all, I am eating off the table!)

We are stuffed to the gills and in something of a food trance. We easily, happily, let go of nearly a month's rent when the bill comes, leaving our service team of at least a half dozen the largest tip I have ever conceived. We slowly wander back downstairs where the maitre'd remembers we took a cab and has already sent a porter out to hail one for us. In the mean time, we are invited to stand at the glass wall of the kitchen to watch the goings on. It is quiet, methodical and beautiful. Much like our meal.

It was an enlightening and entertaining evening, and to round things out, a special Alina edition of What I Learned:
1. I probably wouldn't go back.  The food, service and wine are all impeccable, but it is a significant investment of funds, and besides, I have my eye set on other culinary destinations (The French Laundry, Next, Per Se, Le Bernadin, The Fat Duck...
2. Texture is king. Texture is immensely important to me when it comes to judging the success of a dish. It can make or break a dish. And Temperature can, and probably will, delight me.
3. I want foie. I love truffles, but if I am going to pay so very much for a high end meal, I wish the chef would include a little fatted liver. I honestly missed it.
4. There is always room for dessert. And on a related note, I think people who say they leave this restaurant still hungry are full of shit.